Living in Sicily half the year, I am surrounded by lemons. The heady perfume of lemon blossoms on my terrace this past month has been delightfully strong. Sicilians are proud of their lemons, and they should be. Nine out of ten of the lemons in Italy come from Sicily. There is a saying in Sicily that they’re not real lemons unless they are Sicilian.
The folks on the Amalfi coast disagree. They claim to be the caretakers of the true lemon, everything else is just yellow fruit. They have a strong argument, for there are special varieties of lemons only found on the Almalfi coast. The most famous being the Sfusato Amalfitano which is protected with a geographic indication status (I.G.P.).
The Sfusato Amalfitano is twice as big and much less acidic than your average lemon. It is spindle shaped with a thick white pith and slightly bumpy skin. They are highly perfumed, and the pulp is almost sweet, mild enough to eat raw without bringing a pucker to one’s face. In fact very thin slices of Almalfi lemons (including peel and pith) tossed with olive oil, salt and pepper make a wonderfully simple salad to accompany fish.
I love both Sicilian and Almalfitano lemons; they are totally different and equally good. When I want sharp, acidic taste to contrast sugar (such as in the granita recipe following), I use Sicilian lemons. Sicilian lemons may be smaller in size than their Almalfi cousins, but they pack a punch. When I want a subtle, more delicate flavor, I use an Amalfitano.
Sicilian lemons are much more widely distributed than Almalfi lemons (which are difficult to find even in Italy outside the Almalfi coast). These recipes work with whatever lemons you have available, just remember unsprayed, organic lemons are best since you’ll be eating the zest.
Pasta with Lemon and Fresh Herbs
This is one of my summer standby dishes. It is fresh and tangy on the palate, and is quick and easy to throw together for an impromptu meal with friends—i.e. more time outside enjoying the garden and fine weather and less time in the kitchen. Nice with a crisp white wine or dry rosé.
(Serves 4)
2 tablespoons butter
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
The zest and juice of two large unsprayed lemons (or one Almalfi lemon)
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
½ teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper
A pinch of red pepper flakes, to taste
A pinch of nutmeg
A generous handful of fresh basil and Italian parsley, finely chopped
1 tablespoon sniped chives
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint
A cup or more of finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Sea salt, to taste
1 lb/500 gm Linguine or spaghetti pasta
Stir all the ingredients together in a large serving bowl.
Cook the pasta in a large pot of rapidly boiling salted water until al dente. Add about a cup of the cooking water to the lemon mixture before draining the pasta. Toss the hot pasta with the sauce until well coated. Taste for salt and cheese, and serve. Good cold as well.
