Milan’s second Prêt-à-porter Week, which ends tomorrow, has attracted thousands of buyers from all over the world along with over two thousand journalists, but, for the organisers and designers, there is only one journalist who matters.
She is Anna Wintour, editor of American “Vogue” and the inspiration for the film, “The Devil Wears Prada”. When Ms Wintour announced her intention of spending only four days in Milan, it was seen as a snub and even, by some, as an anti-Italian plot. With every participating designer insisting on showing during Wintour’s presence, the “week” was cut to four days.
However, the designers and models rallied to the occasion and it has been a success.
First, Elena Miro, a house which designs for the “Mediterranean-shaped” woman, created a sensation with its “real women” [read “normally sized”] models dressed in luxurious fabrics in flattering blacks and muted browns.
Then Missoni showed geometric knits with black as the predominant colour. Green and pink also featured. There were lots of bare midriffs – rather cold if the 2011 Milan winter is anything like this one!
Dolce and Gabbana, in their twenty-fifth anniversary show, featured tailored, black jackets over Bermudas, panties, satin and corsetry. The theme of this collection was “Sartorialità, Sicilianità, Sensualità” and the influence of the Sicilian woman, dressed in black, is still there. As the models walked down the catwalk, overhead videos showed the sometimes frantic work that goes on in a designer workroom. At the end of the show the seventy-five models appeared together in black jackets of various lengths over – well – nothing.
Roberto Cavalli had an anniversary too and his collection celebrated his fortieth year in fashion. The look was definitely boho, with furs worn over
Gucci also showed furs along with leather and lots of cashmere. Black was again predominant.
Armani, as ever, presented a collection of sheer elegance, featuring black velvet and the return of the white glove. His cherry red, emerald green and orange creations provided the organisers with another sensation. The designer himself has defined this collection as his “new chic”.
Armani and his fellow-Milanese designer, Miuccia Prada, should be feeling very happy, as the pop singer Lady Gaga has asked them to design for her tour.
All in all a successful “week”, then, despite the perceived snub of la Wintour.
Do you think Wintour snubbed the Milan Fashion Week?
Were the organisers right to curtail the week?
