Follow us in this walk in the delightful Val di Chiana in Tuscany, above an attractive town founded by ancient Etruscans but shaped by medieval and Renaissance
events. Pretty stone-clad Cortona leaves lasting impressions – your knees for a start will never forget it as flat ground is rare and all directions are uphill! High above the town a basalt-pavedway, reputedly Roman in origin, climbs through woodland.
A profusion of wildflowers greets walkers in the spring and summer months, with pastel-coloured rock roses, exquisite insect orchids, stands of pretty tree heather and scented broom. The pathways here were reputedly well known to St Francis of Assisi as he travelled the country founding places of prayer and meditation. Curiously, the Italian expression ‘cavallo di San Francesco’ means ‘on foot’.
The town of Cortona itself is the sphere of chattering jackdaws and darting swallows in summer and it has a lot to offer visitors in terms of peace and quiet, scattered Etruscan remains and a prestigious art collection.
The route
From Cortona’s Piazza della Repubblica (494 metres a.s.l.) you begin climbing immediately: to the right of the grocery shop take Via Santucci, leading into Via Berrettini past an ancient well and into Piazza Pescaia. Here bear left up to Chiesa di San Cristoforo, then right onto Via Santa Croce.
Shaded by cypresses, this atmospheric stepped way emerges at the scenically placed Chiesa di S. Margherita at the foot of an old Medici fortress. Head left out through the old walls and follow red/white waymarks for n.561. This swings down to the hamlet of Torreone.
Opposite Hotel Corys a rough road (strada basolata) continues the ascent north-east past rural properties and olive groves, later becoming a path through a beautiful chestnut wood. Keep your eyes peeled in the proximity of a stream crossing for where n.561 forks right for the beginning of a pretty paved stretch. Wild orchids are abundant here, as are woodpeckers busy in the pine trees.
A rough lane is crossed and soon waist-high shrubs traversed. It’s not far up to a quiet road on the 911-metre ridge and pine copse with an inviting picnic area just below Monte Alta Sant’Egidio. Rested and restored, return 10 minutes downhill the way you came, but turn right at the rough lane – marked for n.563.
Follow the red/white paint splashes carefully SW through oak and chestnut wood via a string of junctions.
A stand of prominent pines marks the beginning of a final descent through dry brush to a batch of beautifully restored houses, and onto a surfaced road. Turn right for the remaining metres to the utterly peaceful Franciscan retreat of Le Celle. The complex dates back to the 13th century, and has hosted inspiring figures such as St. Anthony of Padua.
Unless otherwise indicated, visitors are free to wander around and even see St. Francis’ cell, though silence is requested at all times. Time permitting, detour the front walls for the path down to the lovely stone bridge constructed in 1728 by Grand Duke Leopold.
Retrace your steps along the road, continuing for 2 km back to Torreone and a relaxing drink at the café, where you pick up the route used earlier, to return to Cortona.
HOW TO GET THERE
By train: Cortona is one hour 20 minutes south of Florence and a little over two hours north of Rome (www.trenitalia.com) – alight at either Camucia or Terontola and take the connecting bus. Self-drive visitors need the main road SS71 that links Arezzo and Lake Trasimeno
WHAT TO TAKE Trainers, drinking water, picnic lunch
THE WALK
Three hours, excluding rest stops. Any time of year is suitable, though snow and chilling winds can be expected in midwinter. Be aware that the climb totals 400 metres (1312 feet) in height gain, though no difficulties or exposed stretches are involved
INFORMATION
Cortona Tourist Office Tel. (+39) 0575 630352 www.apt.arezzo.it
WHERE TO STAY
Albergo Athens tel.0575/630508. Atmospheric ex-monastery with few mod cons but the position is wonderful.
B&B Le Gelosie tel.0575/630005 www.legelosie.com Cosy newly renovated premises in the heart of town.
Hotel Italia tel.0575/630254 www.planhotel.com/hitalia. Converted 15th-century palace with panoramic terrace
