As the backdrop to the vampire trilogy Twilight, Maremma has become a Mecca for die-hard movie fans. But it's still possible to escape the crowds and capture its stunning countryside on film - if you know where to go. In an exclusive article for XXX, Italian landscape photographer Giulio Cerocchi examines the region's regal - and raw - beauty.
When I first arrived in Maremma nearly a decade ago, I was overwhelmed by its unspoilt beauty and rich cultural heritage. Having uprooted from the crowded and polluted city of Milan far to the north of Italy, I was struck instantly by the sheer wilderness and variety of the landscape. To Italians, Tuscany is seen as a magical and ancient region, while Maremma, which sits on the southwestern coast, is held as the jewel in its crown.
Maremma is a true inspiration for any photographer lucky enough to set foot in its romantic wonderland. No wonder Volterra - one of its oldest cities - was chosen as a key location for the international blockbuster, Twilight.
Like the vampire fantasy film which brought Hollywood heartthrob Robert Pattinson worldwide fame, Maremma offers a spell-binding experience to the photographer.
Encompassing rolling farmland and pristine beaches bordering the Tyrrhenian Sea, the serene villages of the Maremma are a far cry from the overcrowded coastal towns of northern Tuscany.
For a photographer like me, this fascinating land offers a thousand opportunities for sublime pictures with minimum effort. Simply point your camera and click - the countryside will do the rest.
If you enjoy walking or cycling, I highly recommend taking the Via Aurelia, the ancient Roman road which stretches along the eastern border of from Volterra. You'll quickly get an idea of the region's illustrious past.
You'll soon find Saturnia, a village south of Grosseto, near Tuscany's border with Lazio, which is home to a collection of sulphurous thermal springs revered since Roman times for their medicinal properties. During the Renaissance of the 15th-Century, the Medici, one of the most powerful families in Italy, visited regularly.
In fact, it is thanks to the Florentine Medici that people today can enjoy Maremma. After conquering the region, they started land reclamation of the marshes that until then had made the area a malaria-ridden no-go zone.
The best time to take a photo of this area is, fittingly enough, at twilight. As the sun goes down, a transparent, ethereal light fills the air, illuminating the sulphurous water with a twinkle to rival that of Twilight's tormented vampire, Edward Cullen.
Vampires can live for centuries, but the pedigree of Maremma's native population stretches back to the dawn of Mediterranean civilisation. Hundreds of years before the Romans made their mark, the mysterious Etruscan people were tilling the fertile soils of the region.
Even today, over two millennia later, their presence is felt around every corner. The ancient citadel of Tarquinia is just south of the Lazio confines, while the Neolithic settlement of Volterra is to the north.
The captivating and unique archaeological remains of both villages can easily be visited on a day trip.
Volterra has, as any movie buff will tell you, become popular through the Twilight saga. It features in 'New Moon' as the haunting Italian city that the ancient vampire family of the Vulturi call home. It was the perfect backdrop: Volterra - which stands proudly on a rocky hill some 1,770 feet above sea level - exudes dark history.
At its height, Volterra was one of the most important cities in the Etruscan Confederation. The magnificent Porta all'Arco, the dark stone archway seen in 'New Moon', is from this period.
It is believed the archway was raised during the 7th-Century BC. Though time has taken its toll, the busts of three gods still jut out from the mighty stone blocks. So proud of this landmark were the locals, that during World War Two they dismantled and hid the stones to protect it from Nazi forces.
There are ancient ruins all over Volterra, even in the heart of the city centre. Like Twilight's vegetarian blood-sucker Alice, all the traveller must do to reach this timeless interior is cross the San Francesco Gate.
Any corner of this fascinating city is perfect for taking stunning photos, whether you're a seasoned photographer or simply a beginner wanting to have fun.
If you are a Twilight fan, I recommend you wander the narrow streets, passing Oratorio di San Cristofano on the way to Piazza dei Priori - the main square, - where Bella is captured and locked up in the clock tower.
Leading off from the square is the 13th-Century Palazzo dei Priori, which is the oldest town hall in Tuscany. The interior entrance is beautifully decorated. (That is some complement considering the range of impressive buildings that ring the piazza, including the 14th-Century Palazzo Vescovile.)
Art lovers might like to visit the impressive Cathedral of Volterra. Consecrated in 1120, the building contains a number of Renaissance masterpieces including the stunning "Annunciation" by Luca Signorelli (1445- 1523). Pictures are forbidden, but five minutes spent here will form a mental image to last a lifetime.
Volterra provides a feast for the eyes, but if you are looking for fine cuisine then head on to Grosseto, my home town, which is only an hour away by car.
Grosseto is one of Tuscany's most romantic corners, surrounded by rolling hills and verdant woods where the most diverse wildlife are to be found.
The cookery in this county is based upon traditional recipes that have been passed down from one generation to the next, utilizing the very best of local produce.
Grosseto, the agricultural capital of the Maremma, is known for its "Agriturismo", or agricultural tourism. Organic farming is very popular and I recommend you visit a farm - any one, they are all good - to try out some genuinely delicious food.
Ask for a mixed salad of sun-ripened tomatoes, artichokes, mushrooms, spinach, olives and wild boar, prepared by the locals who are always happy to serve. It's mouth-wateringly delicious, but before you tuck in, pause for a second to enjoy the visual delight of the meal before you and take a picture.
Grosseto itself lies on a low-lying coastal plain near the Ombrone River southwest of Siena, once a malarial swamp until its complete drainage in 1930.
The old town, filled with excellent restaurants, cafes and colourful shops, is enclosed by a 16th-century hexagonal wall, a rampart of which bears the arms of the aforementioned Medici family.
Wondering freely in the historical part of town is an experience enjoyable even at the height of summer. The ancient thick walls keep the air cool and dry despite temperatures of 40 degrees and a humidity approaching 80 per cent.
Like the vampires in Twilight, you'll find plenty of things in Maremma to sink your teeth into. It's a photographer's idea of paradise.
If you want to know more about Giulio Cerocchi's work, contact him via email: giulioromano.cerocchi@fastwebnet.it or go to giuliocerocchi.com
How to get there:
Take a direct flight from London Gatwick to Florence. The quickest and more comfortable way to get to Grosseto is by train (there is a service almost every hour). ENDS
