How to Make the Palate-Cleansing Punch Served at 19th-Century Italian Dinner Parties
Ponce is one of those fun Italian words lifted from the English language — from the word punch, in this case — just like bistecca, taken from the English word beefsteak. Among the types of punches in various culinary traditions, ponce alla romana is sorbet-like, citrusy, and topped with a frothy whipped egg whites. According to Pellegrino Artusi, who in 1891 described it as “a kind of ice cream” in Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well, this punch was commonly served at “fancy dinner parties” in 19th-century Italy, just before the meat course — a palate cleanser, essentially. Yet given its festive, pretty color and citrus flavors, Roman punch also makes for a lovely after-dinner drink this time of year.
A few notes on the recipe: Italian meringues differ from others in that they incorporate a warm syrup into the whipped egg whites to create a thick, creamy, frothy mixture. For the syrup, Artusi calls for vanilla, but I suggest lemon juice (1/2 a lemon will do) as the whites benefit from a touch of something acidic. Use fresh eggs and beat the whites at room temperature, not cold. Gently spoon the meringue over the sorbet just before serving.
Serves 6
Bring 1 & 2/3 cups of the water to a boil with 1 & 1/4 cups of the sugar. Remove from heat as soon as the liquid reaches a boil. Add the lemon and orange zest and squeeze in the juice of both lemons and both oranges. Let cool and transfer to a ceramic or plastic dish and cover with a lid or cling wrap. Freeze until it reaches a slushy consistency (about 2 hours).
Bring the remaining sugar and water to a boil. Add a dash of vanilla and stir vigorously. Cook the liquid you have a very thick, sticky syrup. Remove from the heat but do not cool. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites until very stiff. While the syrup is still warm, pour it over the egg whites and whisk briskly to combine. Let the mixture cool thoroughly.
Use an ice cream scoop to distribute the citrus sorbet into six glasses and top with the sweet meringue. Pour a shot of rum into each glass and garnish with orange zest (optional). Serve with a cocktail stirrer.
