There are countless tour companies claiming to show you the “real Rome,” to help you “beat the crowds” and reveal “hidden secrets.”
As anyone who has spent a sweaty summer’s day traipsing around the Colosseum or standing in line for the Vatican can attest, these promises of getting “under the skin” of Italy’s capital city often feel very far from the truth. Rome is one of the world’s most visited cities, with an estimated 10 million international visitors coming each year.
But things can look very different if you drag yourself out of bed early in the morning, when only market traders and the first of the commuters are up and about. Licensed tour guide, art historian and fitness coach Dr. Isabella Calidonna has spent years finessing what she believes is the ultimate way to enjoy the city she’s called home for the last decade, incorporating her love of jogging, ancient history and early morning tranquility.
Seeing Rome like home
This is experiential tourism at its best, a chance to jog along the streets of Rome and soak up the city’s day-to-day life with the inside knowledge of a new friend who lives here, while also stopping off at some of the city’s best-known sites. Isabella offers a rare combination which, unsurprisingly, has started to gain real traction among visitors looking for something different.
This fall, Isabella has launched a new early morning run (or walk, for those who prefer!), taking in both the Colosseum and the Roman Forum. Whereas many of her other tours would take people to lesser-known corners of the city so they could focus on soaking up some of the “real life” here, Isabella explains that “this is a truly special tour because you will be able to enjoy the beauty of the still-empty city, early in the morning and before the tourists are up and about.”
The idea for the tour came from Isabella’s personal love of the peace and quiet you find in Rome in the early hours. Isabella meets you at 7am at your hotel or apartment, and jogs along with you to the Colosseum. The tour includes entrance with the panoramic lift.
Isabella explains, “This is a one-of-a-kind visit, because we will visit the third ring of the monument and the attic, which is usually out of bounds to the general public. Furthermore, at that time the Colosseum is still closed to the general public, so it will only be you and your qualified tour guide (the only way to have this experience) inside the monument.” The run then continues to Palatine Roman Forum, where Isabella shows you around the sprawling ruins that were once the heart of ancient Rome.
Other new tours from ArcheoRunning include an Instagram Tour, taking you past the city’s most photogenic spots at a time when the light is especially picturesque, and her “Michelangelo's Spots” tour, which covers many of the places where Michelangelo Buonarroti worked and lived. Below, we ask Isabella some questions about the story behind ArcheoRunning.
Chatting with Isabella Calidonna, Rome’s consummate early-morning explorer
Italy Magazine: What is it that makes Rome so special early in the morning?
Isabella Calidonna: It’s so many things. It’s about the light, which is utterly unique, and the almost surreal atmosphere. If you think about it, Rome is a city that by nature has been bustling and chaotic since many millennia ago when it was the center of the ancient world, and all the way through to the modern day. Seeing her silent, asleep and still empty is a priceless experience that stays with you.
IM: Tell us about yourself and how you started to do this work.
IC: I am an art historian (PhD in Art History) and soon I’ll also be qualified as an archaeologist. I was born in the south, in the region of Calabria right at the toe of the boot of Italy. Ten years ago, I decided to change my life and moved to Rome for work. I started studying to get a qualification as a tour guide (which in Italy is no mean feat). Then when I decided to start ArcheoRunning, I also got the qualification as a coach to be able to offer my future clients the best professional experience across both fitness and sightseeing.
IM: Why do you think running and sightseeing are such a unique and great combination?
IC: The simple answer to this is because you get to see more things in less time. You still learn the history of the places and monuments you see, as well as anecdotes and ancient legends and stories. It’s a way to discover secret and hidden places and do some healthy exercise at the same time, something which is often missing on a trip to Italy filled with eating and drinking. ArcheoRunning is not about hard training or racing, but light jogging and a new way to experience the city.
IM: How do you manage to get your guests behind the scenes and into places that are not usually open to the public?
IC: Obviously all the paths I propose are carefully studied and tested, in order to offer only the best experiences for my guests. For places not normally open to the public I ask for special authorizations, which only those who are certified guides can request.
IM: What do you love about fall and winter in Rome, once most of the tourists have left?
IC: I love this time of year for so many reasons. The autumnal atmosphere in Rome is really magical, as the nights are drawing in and Christmas is approaching. It’s a time for cozy trattoria nights while still enjoying the glorious light on the trees. In these months I'm always busy working on new content for the season ahead. I go on inspections for new sites and routes, and enjoy the beauty of the parks with the autumn colors and the sun that warms the winter days, which are never too cold here. Of course, I also work with tourists who have decided to follow my advice and visit the city in these lovely, lower season months.
IM: What are some mistakes people normally make when visiting Rome that stops them from seeing the city at its best?
IC: The biggest mistake is to stop at the most well-known monuments and squares and museums, forgetting that Rome is full of hidden treasures if you just know where to look. For me another mistake is getting up too late. It's true that you're on holiday and it's okay to sleep, but dedicate one day to an early morning experience with me. You won't regret it!
About ArcheoRunning
The first running tour to be certified in Rome, ArcheoRunning is a unique experience which incorporates founder Isabella Calidonna’s passion for running, ancient history and sightseeing. It’s not simply a running group, but a properly authorized tour guide experience around some of Rome’s best-known sites and true hidden gems. The maximum number of people on any tour is seven, ensuring it’s always a highly personalized experience. This holiday season, you can also treat loved ones to the unique experience with the newly launched ArcheoGifts. To find out more, visit archeorunning.com or contact info@archeorunning.com.
