We continue our journey through Italy's lesser-known theatres that boast an interesting history and relevant architectural features. Today we take you to Parma where we visit the Teatro Farnese.
Modern and ancient styles merge in the Italian city of Parma. Old monuments, plane trees, chic boutiques, quaint delicatessens and contemporary artworks flank the cobbled streets of the elegant city centre that are frequented by trams, weaving cyclists, strolling students and curious tourists.
Piazzale della Pilotta at the heart of the city is home to the magnificent Teatro Farnese, which is the precursor to the modern-day playhouse. The theatre is perhaps the equivalent of a 21st century oligarch’s media room equipped with the latest technology. Built from wood and modelled on a classical style, the Baroque theatre was commissioned in the early 17th century by Ranuccio I, Duke of Parma and member of the powerful Farnese family. The theatre was inaugurated in 1628 as the venue for the wedding celebrations of the duke’s son, Ottavio, to Cosimo de’ Medici’s daughter, Margherita. The duke and his family participated as actors in a play at the nuptials and staged a naumachia (naval battle) that employed mock-ships on wheels. The theatre was then used only nine times over the next 104 years.
Despite the fact that Teatro Farnese came to life as a rich man’s plaything, it is highly significant in theatrical and architectural history since it is the prototype of the contemporary playhouse. It has a rectangular stage designed to house props for special effects and scenery that creates a perspective, with side wings and a proscenium arch at the front. The auditorium is made of wood with rows of seating. The walls are peppered with recesses housing ornamental pillars, arches, carvings and stucco statuary.
Parma was bombed heavily during World War II, causing many of the theatre’s fragile statues to collapse. The building was refurbished in the 1950s and any wooden replacements were left plain to distinguish them from the original wooden features, which are heavily decorated. What remains is delightful, as both a heritage site and a testament to the wealth of one of Italy’s most influential noble families and their capacity to innovate.
Teatro Farnese is open from 8.30am to 2pm Tuesday to Sunday. Admission costs €2. The theatre is not used to stage concerts or plays on a regular basis, but during the summer is used for one-off shows and exhibitions.
Where: Teatro Farnese, Piazzale della Pilotta 15, Parma, Emilia Romagna
Website: http://www.parmabeniartistici.beniculturali.it/altri-luoghi/teatro-farnese/
How to get there: Parma is in Emilia Romagna in the north of Italy, just over the Appenine Mountains from Tuscany. There are three international airports, two of them with connections to the U.K. and rest of the world.
